The morning air in Jerez feels fresh and scented with orange blossom. Church bells ring out across tiled rooftops, their echo rolling through the historic city center. The slow clatter of hooves rises and falls in rhythm – a horse-drawn carriage passing by, its driver tipping his hat to a friend walking along the cobblestone street. The low hum of conversation from a nearby cafe mixes with the faint strains of flamenco guitar from a street performer. As the city wakes, so does the rhythm of Jerez.How this day plays out will depend on many things: what foods are in season, whether a celebration is in order (and, with the many festivals each year, one typically is), or if you run into a friend you end up sharing a meal with, as Jerez has a way of making a city feel like a close-knit town. Perhaps on this day you feel drawn to something classic – stopping into a neighborhood tabanco for impromptu flamenco, wandering into an equestrian rehearsal at the Royal Riding School, or joining a small tasting at a bodega where families have been making sherry wine for generations. Here, there are so many places the day can take you.
With 3,000 years of history, Jerez blends ancient heritage with a way of life that feels unmistakably its own. Join us as we explore a few of the city’s special elements that make it such a unique place:
The Flavors of Jerez
In Jerez, dining mirrors the city itself: unhurried and full of character. The food here is simple, always focused on the quality of local ingredients above elaborate techniques.
Breakfast is a ritual here, and most locals have their favorite go-to spot for Spanish tortilla, a thick omelet made with eggs and potatoes that’s soft in the center and served warm or tostada con aceite, toasted bread drizzled with olive oil and topped with jamón ibérico from the nearby mountain villages of Huelva, where jamón originated – a reminder of how easily the best of Andalusia finds its way to the table here.
Lunch is the main meal, and tends to revolve around one perfect ingredient: grilled fish, flame-seared chorizo, a pan of prawn rice, or a thick local steak, sliced and sprinkled with flaky salt from the salinas, the nearby ancient salt fields of Cádiz. Tapas-style sides complete the table. Some local favorites include roughly chopped papas aliñás, fried peppers, and a simple plate of sliced tomatoes from nearby Conil, bright with flavor. What ties each dish together are the staples that define this region: locally pressed olive oil and vinagre de Jerez – sherry vinegar only produced here.
Dinner is light and social, with small plates shared over wine, often starting late and ending when the conversation does.
Home to more than a dozen Michelin-listed restaurants, two Michelin Star establishments, and countless traditional tapas bars, a rich offering of choices awaits you in Jerez.
Here are a few places that capture the city’s flavor:
- Venta Estaban – Visited by King Felipe VI, this classic Jerez institution just outside the city center is beloved for its generous Andalusian dishes and warm, traditional atmosphere.
- A Mar – A Michelin-Guide listed restaurant in the old quarter, known for putting the sea at the heart of its menu, with fresh fish, grilled meats, and rice dishes.
- Albalá – A Michelin-Guide listed restaurant near the Royal Equestrian School. A bold, identity-driven spot offering tapas, stews, seafood and meat, all with a creative touch.
- Mesón Asador – A traditional tapas bar tucked down an alley near the old center, beloved by locals for its hearty plates.
- Las Banderillas – A true local favorite, simple and spirited, with a bar counter that fills early and a menu that honors Jerez’s everyday flavors.
The Spirit in the Glass
The namesake of Jerez – a wine and a city that are one and the same.
The name Jerez (locally pronounced heh-RETH) itself is the origin of the English word sherry – a reminder that this city and its wine are one and the same. Many meals in Jerez are enjoyed with a glass of the wine that carries its name. Sherry is more than a drink here; it’s a tradition, a craft, and a point of pride. From crisp, dry Fino enjoyed with tapas to rich Oloroso sipped slowly after a meal, each style reflects the region’s sun, soil, and patience.
Local bodegas – remarkable architectural spaces created for the long, patient aging of sherry, found throughout Jerez – offer a chance to enjoy their sherry while learning about the rich history of where it is made, including these selections:
- Bodegas Tradición – known for its museum-quality art collection and limited-production sherries, offering intimate guided tastings that combine culture and craft.
- González Byass – one of Jerez’s most iconic producers, home to Tío Pepe, with extensive tours revealing the history of sherry-making at its most legendary scale
- Bodegas Lustau – celebrated for its innovation and variety, offering detailed tours that showcase the full spectrum of sherry styles in a sleek, modern setting.
The Dance of Horses
Long before Jerez became known for its wine, it was celebrated for its horses.
The city’s equestrian heritage here predates Roman times and flourished under Moorish rule, when the Andalusian horse – admired for its strength, beauty, and intelligence – was first bred in the rolling plains surrounding the city. Centuries later, these same bloodlines would help shape the great European breeds, earning Jerez a reputation as the cradle of classical horsemanship.
That legacy lives on today at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, where the relationship between horse and rider becomes pure choreography. Performances such as “How the Andalusian Horses Dance” showcase extraordinary harmony – horses prancing, turning, and gliding in rhythm to Spanish music, as if dancing on air.
Beyond the arena, this equestrian spirit still defines daily life in Jerez. Horse-drawn carriages move through the city’s cobbled streets in a city where tradition and grace are never far from sight.
You don’t have to be a horse enthusiast to appreciate Jerez’s equestrian culture; simply being surrounded by it reveals how deeply this heritage runs through the city. You can experience it firsthand through traditions like:
- See “How the Andalusian Horses Dance” at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art – Performances are held on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Captivating for all, not just horse lovers, it’s the perfect family activity. Arrive early to explore the school’s elegant grounds and visit its museum and stables.
- Take a tour of the city by horse-drawn carriage. Easily flagged down in the historic center, they offer a timeless way to see Jerez’s narrow streets and grand plazas at an unhurried pace.
The Heartbeat of Flamenco
It’s often said that flamenco was born in Andalusia, though exactly where sparks lively debate. Many point to Jerez de la Frontera, while others claim Sevilla – two cities whose streets still echo with its rhythm. What’s certain is that flamenco here is more than performance; it’s identity, emotion, and heritage intertwined.
Flamenco is as much felt as it is seen – a conversation between voice, guitar, and dance that channels the full range of human feeling: joy, sorrow, pride, and longing. Rooted in centuries of cultural exchange among Andalusian, Moorish, Jewish, and Roma communities, it evolved into an art form defined by passion and presence.
Every gesture, every note, every step is created in the moment – a spontaneous dialogue between the performers that gives flamenco its unmistakable energy and soul. This improvisation, guided by intuition and rhythm rather than choreography, is what makes each performance unique. Each dance is a fleeting emotional truth that can never be repeated the same way twice.
Jerez remains one of flamenco’s great strongholds, home to some of Spain’s most celebrated singers and dancers, where the art form continues to live and evolve with every generation.
This timeless art still beats at the heart of Jerez’s identity. Feel its rhythm and passion at these celebrated spots:
- Tabanco El Pasaje – A Jerez institution where sherry and flamenco intertwine; live shows are held most evenings in a setting that feels unchanged by time.
- Peña Tío José de Paula – One of the city’s most respected peñas, known for authentic performances that honor traditional flamenco in its rawest form.
- Centro Andaluz de Flamenco – Housed in the 18th-century Palacio de Pemartín, this cultural center preserves the legacy of flamenco through archives, exhibits, and occasional live performances.
A City of Celebration
Proof that in Jerez, celebration is simply a way of life.
Jerez’s calendar is shaped by annual events deeply rooted in cultural tradition – moments when the city gathers to honor heritage, harvest, and community. From solemn processions to week-long fairs, these celebrations form the backbone of the city’s identity and return each year with the same devotion and joy. Around them, countless smaller festivals, neighborhood gatherings, and seasonal traditions fill the streets with music, color, and life, reminding visitors that in Jerez, celebration isn’t limited to a single season – it’s woven into the rhythm of the city itself.
Experience the events that shape Jerez:
- Semana Santa (March or April – Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday) – A moving week of candlelit processions, music, and centuries-old craftsmanship traditions.
- Feria del Caballo (May) – A dazzling celebration of Andalusian horses, sherry wine, and flamenco dance – one of Spain’s most iconic ferias.
- Fiestas de la Vendimia (September) – The grape-harvest festival, filled with open-air tastings, parades, and local pride.
- Zambombadas (December) – Origionaly from Jerez, and now found in other parts of Andalusia, these joyful street gatherings blend flamenco, Christmas carols, and winter warmth, drawing visitors from across Spain.
- Cabalgata de Reyes Magos (January 5) – The traditional Three Kings Parade, a spectacular procession of floats, music, and celebration for all ages.
The Everyday Rhythm
The beauty of life lived slowly and well.
Beyond its grand festivals and traditions, Jerez’s true charm lies in its everyday rhythm – the gentle cadence of a city that knows how to savor life. Here, time seems to expand. Days are marked not by schedules, but by small pleasures: a long lunch shared with friends, a stroll through sunlit streets, a glass of sherry enjoyed without hurry. In Jerez, life isn’t about chasing moments, it’s about inhabiting them fully.
Places where Jerez’s everyday life unfolds:
- Mercado Central de Abastos – The city’s vibrant central market, where locals shop for fresh seafood, produce, and regional specialties each morning.
- Plaza del Arenal – The heart of daily life in Jerez, surrounded by cafés and ideal for an afternoon coffee or people-watching under the sun.
- La Moderna – A traditional café-bar that opened nearly a century ago, beloved by locals for its tostada con tomate breakfasts and the timeless hum of conversation that defines a Jerez morning.